Friday, October 21, 2011

Iquitos



















Iquitos is the capital of the Loreto state of Peru, which is the size of California. There are only two ways to get there by boat or plane, and there is only one highway. The Peruvians pride themselves in this because other parts of the amazon such as places in Brazil have roads which cause a spinal effect that destroys the rainforest. When we landed in Iquitos the humidity hit me harder than going from 0 feet above sea level to 12000 in Cuzco. It was 95 degrees with 100% humidity, I was perspirating from every pore on my body, and was in a constant sauna. That was the only flaw to the whole weekend. We drove from the airport to Nauta a river port town, and then took a boat to the confluence of the Ucayali river with the Maranon river with come together to form the great Amazon River. We hadn't even been on the confluence for more than 2 minutes when pink dolphins started cresting the water. The confluence is a rich area of fish so they can usually be spotted here. After gawking at the greenery and dolphins that surrounded us we took off to our bungalow home in the Pacaya Samiri Lodge. The tree that was outside our room was covered with mocking birds that sounded like the monkey abu from Aladin, and the lakes were filled with the giant 500 pound fish that are perch like. We went on a jungle hike trough the hilly terraferma where we saw pygmey marmosets that are 5 inches tall with a lion face. We saw poisonous dart frogs, stick bugs, millipedes, armored centipedes, leaf lizards, and leaf frogs. The bugs were cherping loudly and the mosquitoes were biting. That night we all crashed hard and fell asleep to the sounds of the jungle. The next day we took a boat out to the Pacaya Samiri National Reserve. Our two guides Ray and Uri were experts on the jungle and could find a 3 toes sloth hiding in the trees from a moving boat in the middle of the river. We saw Iguanas, King Fishers, Red Hawks, White Egrets, and about 5 move bird species. The most exciting were the sloths that lazily reached from tree to tree. We learned that their favorite tree had leaves that would make them drunk, and that was part of why they were so lazy. Other animals used this tree to have abortions because it was a poison. After a while we ran across some fisherman who were willing to spear some sardines for us so we could use them for bait later. The lives of the Amazonian's was simple, and learned. the fisherman could spear fish with easy, and he didn't have the stresses that we did in our lives. After he caught about 15 we went deeper into the jungle by boat to were the water is black from the acid of the leaves that fall in it. The water is so black that it is a perfect reflection of the sky and rainforest above. We stopped our boat near a small tributary, and were allowed to swim in the river. I ripped off my clothes and was the first one to dive in. It was blistering hot out, and the water was refreshing. It was the warmest river I have ever been in. Then we all started feeling little nibbles on our back's and toes. We all started asking was that you? No! and then the screaming started. Sardines were confused as to what we were and were starting to taste us. They would jump out of the water, and slap you in the face or cross over your head like they were water in a fountain. After a while you got used to them but I had to get out for a minute to really take in that sardines in the amazon were eating me. I looked across the water as I was catching my breath and 2 pink dolphins swam right behind the group still in the water. I realized not only were we surrounded by sardines but a heard of pink dolphins. My sardine fear ended, and I dove back into the water. As I was swimming back to the group i felt something hard skim across my feet. I closed my eyes and kept swimming not wanting to think of what creatures where below the dark water such as eels, snakes, caymon, snapping turtles, and piranha. I got back to the group and felt the hard surface below my feet again, it swam under me slower, and I could feel the noduals of a turtles shell! I screamed and swam to the boat. After lunch we started to fish for piranha. Of course I caught one, that was called a red bellied piranha. We kept boating after we were done and came to an even blacker part of the river. This tributary was smaller, and the trees and vegetation was straight out of Avatar. The the whole scenery opened up into trees filled with White Egrets. They were soaring all around us and I felt like I was in the Lion King. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I thought I could die then, but the fun wasn't even close to being over that day. We drove off up the river til the sun set, which the first night was mind-blowing, and turned the river red. When it was dark we turned on our flash lights and went Cayman hunting. I know I've referenced 2 movies, but I felt like the Crocodile Hunter (RIP Steve). We were like on animal planet in the jungle hunting Cayman trying to capture them to get a better look for those at home, and that we did. After about an hour of hunting we found an adolescent sitting in some reeds. Our jungle man guide who is one of 20 left of his tribe that is 6 days by boat up tributaries of the Amazon, was a pro and caught the Cayman and brought it into the boat. My mouth dropped, then I asked to hold it! We kept the little guy until we were about to leave the reserve so the other group could see him. Back at the bungalow we had guests from the next village over preform dances of the Ayawaska ceremony, and the dance of the Anaconda. We all danced together for the last song, and went to bed dripping in sweat. The next morning we woke up to see the sunrise and various types of birds, and later went to the village next to our bungalows. They were drying seeds for making jewelry, and it was Sunday so everyone was out and about or staying cool in their thatched roof houses. We came up to the village bar, and tried some sugar cane rum, and then the bartender pulled out a living 3 toes sloth! We all freaked out and got to take pictures and hold it. Then he showed us his baby capybara, which is the largest rodent in the world. Afterwards we were soaking wet from sweat, that day was for sure the hottest day of my life. We left the village, and went into Iquitos to see the city, all the taxi's are motorcycles, and the town was bustling. It was such an oxymoron to the jungle. They were all tribes people who had adapted to the chaos of city life, but still lived in the jungle with no AC electricity or money. I would have just stayed in the jungle.

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Sacred Valley, and Incan explorations








Culture is only important because we give significance to it. For me the Incan culture and traditions has driven my Peruvian experience to spiritual heights that I only could have hoped for. When stepping of the plane in Cuzco you are all out of wack from the 12,000 foot elevation, and the whole trip is a balance of keeping your body protected, while challenging yourself to see the beauty of the Sacred Valley. After driving out of Cuzco we stopped at a place called Chinchero were we hobbled up to a house of a weaver who showed us all the different techniques of how they dye and wash alpaca wool. One of the ways is by mashing small beetles and putting it into a pot of boiling water with lime juice, it makes orange. After feeling the fine fibers of the vacuna, and alpaca we meandered over to terraces of the Incans that followed along one of the many routes of the Incan trail. the next stop was in a small town called Orubumba, where we were able to try a local beer made from corn called chicha. All the way we are traveling deeper into a valley in the beautiful Andes. Our final place that we stopped was Oyantaytambo, the last Incan living town where the old buildings are actually used by native people. The streets are tiny, and the valley walls are as high as the sky, and covered in terraces from Incan Agriculture. The next day we rose before the sun to catch a bus to Machu Picchu. My first though was the ruins look very surf and land owner, but after zooming out my eyes you realize that this mountain jungle is no place for Europeans including the Spanish that never found Machu Picchu. We took the 7am hike up Winupicchu, and sat bedazzeled by the mountains, and craftsmanship that sat below me. butterflies wizzed around me, and I felt like I never wanted to leave. The same happened as I passed through the sun gate into the outer reaches of machu picchu. This door was the passage way from outer lands like to ocean, and the surrounding jungles that transfered ideas, and culture. It was a great juxtaposition to this adventure that I am having.

Peruuuuuuuu






So I am finally over to Peru! After a long day of traveling, I felt like I was finally in Latino America. The cars are honking, and the people are darker. There is no tea time European dream, just Peru. The first day I got here I met my wonderful family Martha, Angel, and Andres who make me feel like Peru is my home. Every morning I wake up to fresh strawberry, pinapple, papaya, mango, or pear juice, and Martha buys me jungle fruit to try. I have eaten Lucuma which is Peruvian, Granadilla which is like an orange and a pomogranite had babies. I have also tried Guyanabana, which is more sour, and cucumber melons. I have eaten cactus fruit, and the avocados are huge! The food is outstanding, and very infused with other native, and Chinese cultures. The second day we got her we went on a city tour, and past the government building the hotel Boliviar, Larco Mar, and Parque Kennedy. While we were taking a bathroom break, there was an earthquake tremor that felt like someone was making this large shopping center bounce just a little. It was like when someone bounces hard on the floor and you can feel it inside your feet. All of the geology and plate tectonics of the Andes and South America is really amazing, I am so happy to be here. After the tremor we went to a Franciscan church that was like walking into Alice and wonderland. Inside the church were caticombs from the 1600's were there were 25,000 bodies found, because it was the first cemetery of Lima. The life of a Limonian is much slower than a Porteno, I think that I could get used to Peru.